Kristin Lia Restoration

HERE ARE STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW I TRANSFORMED THIS MAPLE SECRETARY DESK:

Repairs, Sanding & Cleaning

Here’s how I got started:

1. removed all of the hardware
2. tape the backs of the existing hardware holes so that the wood filler wouldn’t go through when I filled them
3. applied Saman maple wood filler to the holes with a putty knife; also filled some scratches
4. put on all my safety gear including my Suadex safety boots
5. with my SurfPrep 3×4 electric ray sander, sanded the curved top edge of the fold down part using a 100 grit film on an interface pad
6. smoothed out that surface and scuff sanded the rest using a 5mm ProFoam pad in medium
7. applied another coat of filler
8. used Rustoleum’s Krud Kutter to give the surfaces (inside and out) a very deep clean; this helps the paint adhere better
9. rinsed any remaining residue with clean water and a new rag
10. sanded smooth the dried wood filler

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Priming with BIN Shellac

With the surfaces scuff sanded, it was time to prepare the surfaces for paint by priming. The colour my friend chose for this was Picket Fence by Fusion Mineral Paint so I wanted to make sure that any tannins from the wood were sealed in before it was applied.

Here’s how I primed the surface:

1. started by covering my deck with a protective sheet (should have done a better job of this )
2. removed the back board on the top using a tack lifter
   taped the top edge of the sanded piece with Elite washi tape
3. to make sure the surface was ready for paint, I used Rustoleum’s BIN shellac
4. used a foam roller to apply to the flat surfaces and used the BIN spray can to get into all the areas of the cubbies (wore a respirator for this!)
5. waited 45 minutes for the surface to dry enough to be sanded
6. lightly sanded with a 400 grit foam pad to make the surface was free of any debris
7. used a lightly damp cloth to remove the sanding dust
8. repeated the same process when I applied the second coat

I prime for several reasons.

1. To block any tannins (wood oils) from coming through.

2. To reduce the number of coats of paint I need to do to cover the surface.

It’s worth it in the end when you have to paint less!

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Painting with Fusion Mineral Paint

After priming the piece, it was finally time to paint! I’ve been enjoying the painting process lately. For this, my friend chose Fusion Mineral Paint’s Picket Fence – their brightest white.

Here’s how I painted this secretary desk:

1. gave the paint a really good stir before pouring into a foil lined tray
2. for all the flat surfaces, used my Staalmeester microfibre roller to apply the paint; it’s seriously the Rolls Royce of paint rollers
3. to start, I used Zibra’s triangle brush to better access all the cubbies from all angles; was a little too thick for the middle part
4. switched over to my Staalmeester bent fitch brush and it was PERFECT let dry for several hours
5. lightly sanded with a 400 grit foam pad and removed the dust with a lightly damp cloth; let dry
6. repeated this process several times for a total of 3 coats
7. for the second and third coats, I switched over to the Zibra fan brush in conjunction with the bent fitch one

White can be such a tricky colour and seeing how this piece is turning out, I’m actually really proud of myself!!

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Application of General Finishes High-Performance Topcoat

With all the painting done, it was time to seal it! Fusion Mineral Paint does have a topcoat included but seeing as this is going to get a lot of use, I knew extra durability was essential. I love using General Finishes High-Performance Topcoat because it’s water-based and also doesn’t yellow the bright white colour

Here’s how I sealed the paint:

1. made sure to give all the surfaces another sand before applying the sealant; used a 400 grit foam pad and wiped with a lightly damp cloth
2. let dry
3. to apply the topcoat, I used a mop brush (usually used in watercolour painting) for the edges and a microfibre roller for the flat surfaces
4. when applying, it’s important not to overwork the product; apply and let it do its magic and self-level
5. let dry for 2 hours
6. sanded again, wiped and let dry
7. repeated this process two more times to ensure maximum durability

There are only the finishing touches left. While I absolutely dreaded refinishing this piece because of all the cubbies, I’m so happy that I have done it! It just shows me what I am capable of!

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Finishing Touches

With the end in sight, I could not have done it without the right products and equipment. Fusion Mineral Paint’s Picket Fence, Rustoleum’s BIN shellac & Krud Kutter and brushes from Zibra and Staalmeester’s bent fitch brush and microfibre roller. All of these helped to create this beautiful end result.

Here’s how I finished up this piece:

1. removed the tape I used to protect that wood edge
2. cleaned that original hardware by boiling for 10 minutes in a 1:1 mixture of water and white vinegar
3. scrubbed by hand to remove the loosened grime
4. gave one final rinse and dried by hand to avoid water spot
5. used Krylon white spray paint to help those front hinges & screws blend in more
6. always wear a respirator when using spray paint to protect your lungs
7. resecured the backboard to the frame with my DeWalt brad nailer
8. removed the painter’s tape
9. reinstalled the drawer hardware

I am so so happy I was able to help my friend design the perfect piece for her daughter. I’ll be so excited to hear all about Christmas morning when she sees it. Having friends trust me to execute their vision is truly so rewarding. Thank you so much!

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