Definition: a protective and decorative wood finish that can be applied directly to bare wood and timber
HARDWAX OIL
Hardwax Oils are typically manufactured from a mix of one or more vegetable oils and one or more waxes; the formulation may also contain a range of additional chemicals like solvents (VOCs), drying agents and pigments for colour.
- oils harden both on the surface and inside the top layer of wood pores as they cure
- most of the content consists of purified natural oils and waxes
- eliminate fewer volatile organic compounds (VOCs) than other finishes
- typically environmentally friendly
- extremely durable and hard-wearing once fully cured
- sanding deficiencies can be highlighted during the application of a hardwax oil, particularly if applying a colored oil
- maintenance is easier and less time-consuming
TUNG OIL
Tung oil (also known as Chinawood oil) is a drying oil that has been extracted by pressing the seed of the tung tree, which is native to China and a few other Asian countries. It hardens upon exposure to air (through polymerization), and the resulting coating is transparent and has a deep, almost wet look.
- is a rather thick medium, so in many instances thinning it down before use is necessary
- thinners used can be oil-based (turpentine, mineral spirits) or more eco-friendly (citrus solvent)
- resists water better than any other pure oil finish and does not darken noticeably with age
- great for outdoor applications
- after it cures, the result is a very hard and easily repaired finish
- used in combination with paints and stains
- need at least 6 or more coats to complete the penetration to the wood
LINSEED OIL
Linseed oil (also known as flaxseed oil) is a colourless to yellowish oil obtained from the dried, ripened seeds of the flax plant. Boiled linseed oil is regular linseed oil that is chemically treated with hot air and additives so that it dries more quickly.
- is a “drying” oil – meaning it will naturally dry or cure on their own
- is highly flammable so proper safety precautions must be taken
- soaks deep into the wooden fibres, to the core of smaller depth pieces of wood, strengthening it throughout
- once cured, protects wood from sun and water damage; this is with 3 coats applied
- helps preserve metal, by protecting the surface from oxidation
- takes a long time to dry so build up coats little by little
- requires at least once a year maintenance
- the oil of choice for sealing wooden musical instruments like violins
HEMP OIL
Pure hemp oil is made of pressed hemp seeds. It’s a drying oil which means it polymerises (cures) over time and hardens into a protective sealing coat with a rich soft sheen on any items that it’s used on.
- ready to apply right out of the bottle
- oil has a deep green colour but goes onto the surface clear
- a great environmentally friendly product with no additives, preservatives, or VOC’s
- will darken and richen the wood with a soft luster; generally the older the wood, the more it will darken it
- water-resistant
- helps protect the wood from moisture and UV damage
- takes 20 – 30 days to fully cure
- different than the oil in the health food stores only insofar as it has been put through a process which allows the oil to completely dry on its own
TEAK OIL
Teak oil is made of usually a mix of linseed or tung oil and varnish. The composition of teak oil is hard to define and depends on the manufacturer.
- isn’t a naturally occurring oil itself
- a penetrative oil that soaks into saturating the wood fibres stopping them from deteriorating
- contains polymer which makes it stronger and gives it a hard finish
- is ideal for both internal and external environments
- absorbs UV light and prevents it from penetrating the wood surface which can cause fading
- when it is not used properly it causes mold and mildew
- apply three coats for best results
- if oil is mixed with water, moisture, air, or any other chemicals, it will get old easily
DANISH OIL
Danish oil is a drying oil that is a mixture of an oil (tung or linseed), a varnish, and a thinner. Because there is no defined formulation, its composition varies among manufacturers.
- term was first used when Danish furniture began to be exported around the world in the 20th Century
- hardens in the wood, not on the wood
- can be used as a primer on bare wood before painting or varnishing once cured
- has great resistant to water and other liquids after 3 coats
- can be combined with oil-based pigments to create wood stains
- re-application of 2-3 coats is recommended for every year
- takes 20 – 30 days to fully cure
References:
https://www.rawlinspaints.com/blog/wood-oils-no-nonsense-guide/
https://allfinishes.co.uk/ideas/wood-oils-guide
https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-finishes-works/
https://walrusoil.com/products/furniture-butter
https://paversealerstore.com/wood-sealer/
https://thediyhammer.com/wood-oils-wood-finishing/
https://www.mychemicalfreehouse.net/2021/01/natural-finishes.html
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/
https://www.furniturecareproducts.com.au/using-pure-hemp-oil-as-a-furniture-polish-finish/
https://primetimepaint.ca/products/fusion-hemp-oil-wood-finish
https://www.realmilkpaint.com/blog/tips/beginners-guide-pure-tung-oil/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tung_oil
https://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-use-boiled-linseed-oil-safely/
https://woodworkly.com/danish-oil-advantages-and-disadvantages/
https://woodworkly.com/teak-oil-advantages-and-disadvantages/
https://woodworkly.com/does-teak-oil-go-bad/
https://canadianwoodworking.com/techniques_and_tips/hardwax-oil/
https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/blogs/blog/what-is-hardwax-oil