Kristin Lia Restoration

HERE ARE STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW I TRANSFORMED THIS MID CENTURY MODERN OFFICE CREDENZA:

How to Disassemble & Sand

Here’s how I got started:

1. removed that awful lock from the one drawer
2. tried to figure out how to remove the doors; first removed the centre support
3. using a putty knife, gently slid it over the top of the spring that held it in place; it worked!!
4. also removed the legs
5. was able to remove the (this makes sanding so much easier)
6. put on all my safety gear including my Suadex safety boots
7. with my DeWalt random orbit sander starting with 100 grit to remove the finish; smoothed out the surfaces with 150 grit
8. used Rustoleum’s Krud Kutter to give the inside of the frame and the inside and outsides of the drawers (everything except the wood surfaces)
9. rinsed any remaining residue with clean water and a new rag
10. to smooth out all the curved edges, my SurfPrep 3×4 electric ray sander was perfect; used a 5mm ProFoam pad in medium
11. removed the dust from the wood surfaces with a tack cloth

I cannot believe that a piece with this gorgeous of a wood grain was formerly used in a hospital. Next up is trying to repair the door that had the lock on it!

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How to fix hole in sliding door

After exposing that gorgeous walnut grain, I needed to fix that hole in one of the doors.

Here’s how I did it:

1. found a teak board in my “I’ll use this one day” pile that was the same thickness as the door
2. cut to size and inserted into the void
3. mixed equal parts A & B of PC Woody (a wood epoxy) and filled the space from both sides
4. waited 24 hours and started to sand; realized I had applied too thick and it wasn’t dry; removed the excess, let dry again
5. sanded using my DeWalt random orbit sander starting with 100 grit; smoothed with 150
6. there were a couple of little pockets so applied Gork’s Goodfilla Heavy-Body Water-Based Wood & Grain Filler in Walnut
7. for the areas around the finger pulls, I used a mini-sander to remove the little bit of finish that remained

I’m so happy that a keep spare wood just for this purpose LOL!

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How to apply Country Chic Paint in Liquorice

Next was painting the accent! I always want to keep as much wood as possible but with this laminate top, I knew a paint accent was necessary. To match the black edges, I chose Country Chic Paint’s Liquorice- their deepest black

Here’s how I painted:

1. to paint that laminate top, first scuff sanded the top with 150 grit and removed the dust with a tack cloth
2. applied Fusion Mineral Paint’s Ultra Grip using a foam roller to make sure the paint would properly adhere
3. to protect the edges that I didn’t want to be painted, I used Scotch Painters Tape
4. used my Zibra Palm Pro for the edges and my Staalmeester microfibre roller for the flat surfaces
5. applied 3 coats of Country Chic Paint’s Liquorice

I adore this black and am excited to see it paired with the walnut wood!

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How to mark out paint accent with Elite washi tape

How do I decide on a paint accent? I had already decided on the accent for the piece so I decided to mock up a couple of images to see which one would look best on the door.

Here’s how I decided on and applied the paint accent on the door:

1. first mocked up 2 different images to get an idea of what looked best
2. to mark out the accent on the door, Elite washi tape was the best choice
3. used my Zibra Palm Pro and my Staalmeester microfibre roller to apply Country Chic Paint’s Liquorice
4. when dry, removed the tape and saw that super crisp line

Strategically placed paint accents can be incredibly helpful when trying to keep as much wood as possible on a piece but also needing to camouflage repairs. I love how this one turned out!

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How to apply Osmo Polyx-Oil with a roller

Country Chic Paint is durable on its own but for extra protection, I always seal it with Osmo Polyx-Oil Clear in matte. I was so excited to see that walnut grain emerge!

Here’s how I sealed both the paint and the wood:

1. stirred the Osmo Polyx-Oil and poured into the tray
2. for the legs and edges, applied with Elite flat brush
3. for the flat surfaces (drawers, sides), applied with a microfibre roller
4. let dry overnight but only 8-10 hours required
5. lightly sanded all surfaces with 400 grit foam pad and removed the dust with a tack cloth
6. the secret to a durable Osmo finish is to slowly build it; because of this, I applied the second coat
7. touched up a couple of spots using Coconix Furniture Repair paint
8. let dry 8-10 hours

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How to apply Osmo Polyx-Oil by buffing

The last step when applying the Osmo finish is to buff in the Polyx-Oil.

Here’s how I buffed:

1. lightly sanded all surfaces with 400 grit foam pad and removed the dust with a tack cloth
2. started by drizzling some of the Polyx-Oil onto the surface
3. using an Osmo Superpad on a pad holder, did gentle circles with the oil until it was all absorbed into the surface
4. finished with long, even strokes with the grain
5. let dry overnight

It will be all about the finishing touches tomorrow!! I’m loving how this one is all coming together

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Finishing Touches

I just loved using Osmo Polyx-Oil to bring the grain on this former MCM office credenza to life! Pairing it with Country Chic Paint’s Liquorice really helped create a really cohesive piece.

Here’s how I finished off this dresser:

1. 👴🏻 Used Grandpa Ernie’s sanding method for all the wood surfaces for a “smooth like butter 🧈” finish; let me know if you need a further explanation
2. removed the tape
3. reinstalled the legs
4. reinstalled the top
5. Bar Keeper’s Friend was incredible at making the finger pulls sparkle
6. put the doors back into their proper locations using the same putty knife to slide them into place

How perfect would this be in a front entryway or in an office?! I love its versatility and that even though its life in a hospital is over, it will now be used in a different capacity.

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